For Arielle Castillo the United States playing Cuba in Cuba was more than a chance to watch the USMNT dominate a lower ranked soccer team. It was her chance to see her ancestral home and discover how true familial stories are.
Until, then, it does become possible to verify them. And through a trip very much focused on another symbolic step in the US and Cuba’s continuing détente, I discovered what so many do: the truth is always, of course, in a gray area. Just four days on the island felt like a year. The bustling capital city felt simultaneously glamorous and shabby, melancholic and joyous, frustrating and exciting, and devastatingly beautiful.